The bagpipes sang the Pastorale on November 21 of each year in the Church of San Pietro in Agnone to announce the arrival of Christmas and the departure of the artisans to the markets. After the mass, in the houses you could find hot chocolate and Raffaijuoli. Even today the tradition remains alive; let’s find out together!
Agnone, a small village in the upper Molise, in the nineteenth century was inhabited by many copper artisans and shepherds who had to abandon their homes during the Christmas period in search of more profitable markets or still green pastures towards Puglia, according to the ancient rite of transhumance.
So to allow these men to celebrate with their families, on November 21 of each year Christmas was anticipated with the mass celebrated in the small church of San Pietro, where the bagpipes played the famous Pasturella, composed by the well-known master Luigi Gamberale. Once out, there was refreshement with hot chocolate and the typical Agnone biscuit, ru Raffaijuol; afterwards the women greeted their husbands ready to leave.
The tradition is still maintained today and, even if the celebration has been moved to the larger church of San Marco, the bells wake the inhabitants of Agnone every 21 November for the 6 o’clock mass! The bagpipes have been replaced by the organ, flutes and violins and the typical breakfast is also served in the town’s bars and bakeries.
What are the Raffaijoli? These are flat-shaped biscuits similar to “pastarelle“, made from eggs, sugar, flour, olive oil and milk, formerly cooked over the embers of the fireplace and characterized by a light smoky aftertaste, nowadays cooked more comfortably in the oven.
For the chocolate instead we provide you here the tasty recipe of Aunt Graziella for a perfect reproduction. Enjoy your meal!
Recipe of Agnone chocolate
- 10 small cups of not strong coffee
- 1 kg of dark chocolate
- 1 cup of water
Method
Melt the chocolate in a bain-marie with water in an enameled iron pot; add the hot coffee and boil, stirring with a wooden spoon, for about half an hour.
Silvia Di Menna
Raffaijuoli and hot chocolate in Agnone (photo: S. Di Menna).